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kinda a shot in the dark, but it happened on my bike, and drove me nuts until I figured it out.  I was having the same issue (not firing on the right side at idle...).  Anyways, it turned out that the points for the right side were shorting out on the points cover when I tightened it down (more specifically, the wire going to the points was shorting....).  When I took the points cover off, or even just loosened it, it ran fine on both sides, but as soon as I tightened it down, the right side always cut out.

Most likely not the case on your bike seeing as it seems to kick in at higher rpms, but may be worth a look as it is probably the simplest test to do (just remove the cover and start it up...).  The previous suggestions by cb200 are probably a bit more likely though.

anyways, hope you sort it out.

Been helping a friend build his 78XS400

Minor things, really. Replaced the points with a stock CDI and electronic ignition, some inexpensive suspension mods, pipes, and paint.

I did the paint with rattlecan, and rattlecan 2 part clear.

These pics were done before installation of the new pipes.







Will get more pics with new pipes, they look nice.

You mentioned needing to synch the carbs.  Did you at least bench synch them to get them close?  If not you need to loosen the throttle cables all the way and set the idle screws so the slides are equally open about the height of an 1/8" drill bit.  Then put the cables back on and make sure they start to pull at the same point.  I had one cable that had one leg of the split loose and the synch was always off until I found and fixed that.

Good luck

James

Damn sexy set-up you got going on there mlinder!  Keep the pics coming.

Your bike most likey has a manual choke-rev the motor up to just below were it starts to run bad and slowly increase the choke, if that causes it to run better your too lean. Also at 3500 rpms the timming advance should kick in if it dosn't the bike will only rev so high.

I (somehow) managed to get it started. It'll idle but still won't rev very high. The timing clearly needs to be set and should make a difference.

So, I wanted to show the work that MRieck has done for me, Jon, and our racing bikes.








Here is the balanced crankshaft sent out to Mike. He had some help with it, but I can't for the life of me remember who it is. Some guy who makes drag racing GS's.




We've been working on adapting wiseco xr200 pistons to our builds, but to get Jons build expedited, I went ahead and ordered Boretechs 12.5:1 CR 362cc pistons.

Here you can see the Boretech piston on the left, and the (not finished) xr200 piston on the right. The Boretechs are within half a gram of each other out of the box. The xr200 pistons weigh a few grams less.



I'll be posting the stuff for my personal bike soon. Enjoy.

As always, Mikes stuff is top notch, and has so much care taken to be reliable, strong and well-performing

It may be too lean.

Check the manual for proper air-screw turn out on those, and then richen them up.

After it dies, also check to see how much fuel is in the bowls. It could be that you just don't have enough fuel there, petcock or fuel line may be screwed. Float height may be way off, stuck up against the side of the bowls or some-such.

I bought a CB360 three months ago. It ran but wouldn't rev above 3500-4000 rpm. The previous own, a young kid, admitted "fiddling with the carb screws" but obviously didn't know what he was doing and probably made things worse.

Fast-forward to today. The bike has been stripped down to a cafe racer (see below), with minimal electrical and no battery (have the eliminator fro Oregon Motorcycle Parts). It gets good spark and after a kick or two the engine will start... but only run for 1-3 seconds. I can't tell if both cylinders are firing or not. Once it's run for a few seconds, it won't start again for 10 minutes or so, as if it's flooded. I know it needs to have the carbs synchronized but if I can't keep running, I can't do the synch.

The engine ran before I removed it, so it should run now. The only change was to pull the starter motor and plug the opening, put new rubber boot/insulators between the carbs and the head, and change the stock air cleaners to individual pods.

Suggestions?

thanks everyone for your help on these issues.  Got the coils switched out this weekend, and got the bike running again.  Firing on both cylinders, and running strong again for the first time in about 2 months.  Actually I would say it is running better than it ever has since I purchased it about 3 months ago.  It is good to have it back. 

Thanks again.